NWC – 24th April – Cyprus
Our final ‘tutored’ tasting of the season was from a member who has spent much time in Cyprus over the years. His passion for the country and the region was clear to see and the evolution in the wine industry sounds like it has been significant. Many of these wines and grapes were new to me which is always fun!
I am going to group the sparkling and still rose into one group for brevity. They appear to be making this style for (British?) tourists as the traditional rose wines are a lot more dark in colour and don’t appeal to holidaymakers! Anyway these generally had too much sweetness for the group, some confectionery notes with pear drops/acetone. Some blood orange and maraschino cherries if I am being generous.
Tsangarides, Xynisteri, 2022. Xynisteri is claimed to be the most common white grape in Cyprus also know for sweet wine as we will revisit later. A melding of stone and citrus waft initially but nothing too distinct. Palate is quite soft at the front, lacking a touch of energy but with lemon moving into a more savoury lemon verbena in the mid palate. 8 euros at the door, 15 online.
Nelion Single Vineyard Xynisteri, 2022. Interestingly using acacia barrels here although didn’t pick up too much infludence. A touch more floral, jasmine and citrus nose. More tropical fruit on palate, pineapple, grapefruit, tinned peaches. Somewhat reminiscent of Macon style. Good balance, mouthwatering and quite a bit of weight on the palate. Bought for 12 euros in Cyprus, would be good value in UK if it was £15, say.
Vlassides, Grifos 2, 2022. A blend of predominently Xynisteri with around 20% Sauvignon Blanc. The Sauv B dominates with it’s classic aromatic profile alongside green apple and gooseberry, touch of hedgerow. Felt a little lacking in intensity after the last two wines, but simple and drinkable. Bought in Cyprus for 9 euros.
Ktima, Gerolemo, Morokanella, 2023. A rarer variety now and an interesting profile, touch of smoke and white blossom. Some green notes, cut grass. Stone fruit on the palate with good intensity of stone fruit, apricot and tinned peaches. Quite a sweet finish though through the fruit profile rather than any residual sugar. Quite powerful for its 11%. 12 euros in Cyprus.
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Tsangarides, Vasilissa, 2022. Another grape that is few and far between but indigenous to the country. Not too giving with its aroma, citrus and green apple but not particularly characterful. Lemon and saline palate with a slightly bitter finish. Less opulent than others, simple but good value at 8 euros locally.
Vasilikon, Vasilissa, 2022. Initially some rubbery reduction which did blow off although I wasn’t convinced it was totally clean. Quite an oily mouthfeel here, lime, lemon zest and stone fruit. Not a style I enjoy but white Rhone folks would be happy. 12 euros in Cyprus.
Makarounas, Spourtiko, 2021. Interestingly only used as a propagator previously but now being used in blends and this rare single varietal bottling. A bit like a dry Riesling nose, petrol even? Some lime and honey for sure. More citrus on the palate, retains the lime of the nose although a little sweet caramel coming in denoting the 2021 fading slightly?
Tsangarides, Chradonnay, 2022. A couple of Chardonnays to finish and for this I was immediately back in the Macon. Oaky but tropical with definite notes of pineapple, guava as well as lemon curd. All that oak not quite yet integrated on the finish. Perhaps not a crowd pleaser against the elegance of some of the other wines but you get a lot for your 8 euros here!
Kyperounda, Chradonnay, 2022. If we were Macon(ish) before this was more of a Chablis style. The nose having more minerality and all citrus rather than the riper fruit of the Tsangarides. It was a bit stuffed with CO2 and pickly acidity to give it a proper review as it required more time in the glass. the materials were good and definitely felt the most poised and restrained of the whites but less typical Cypriot. I can see the appeal. 14 euros in Cyprus.
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Nelion, 2Rizes, 2020. Interesting red blend of the local Mavro but mostly Carignan and Grenache. A port-y nose of dried fruits but a bit of rotting apples, volatile acidity and varnish too. Light but tannic palate, balasmic, cinnamon and a little cherry. I don’t think the bottle was in perfect condition.
Argyrides, Maratheftiko, 2018. Much more pleasant mix of blackcurrant and vanilla with a hint of black pepper. At 6 years it felt the fruit on the palate had lost a little energy but retained some dry rustic tannics. Felt like one to drink it its youth and enjoy the fruit but not one for ageing. Would still be good with the right food, e.g. BBQ.
Kyperounda, Commandaria, 2004. The most iconic wine of Cyprus, it even has its own Wikipedia page. With references dating back to 800 BC it’s known as the oldest name wine that we know. It’s made from Xynisteri and Mavro which are dried in the sun before vinifying. This bottle at 20 years had a very dry cork that didn’t cooperate and the wine had taken on quite a dark colour but it was quite glorious. Lots of tertiary flavours and aromas, coffee, fig roll, caramel, brown sugar, molasses. Despite this it retained impressive acidity. By some distance the wine of the night but many of the whites were impressive, especially at their price points.
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