Shio @ Six Richmond House – Modern Asian – Nottingham
Things have changed at this swanky cocktail bar. They have already been several several culinary incarnations here at one of the swankiest drinks venues in town. The latest is Shio who describe themselves as Modern Asian small plates. The aesthetic remains a pleasingly low-lit, art-deco affair. Well spaced tables and booths sit around a central bar with glimpses into a partially open kitchen alongside. It was quiet at 9pm on a Friday night, perhaps less than half full with most people eating. On a previous visit there had been more of a buzz with several people in for cocktails, but as we know times are tough!
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Dry Aged Beef Skewers – Shio – Nottingham
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Between two we sampled a good chunk of the small menu. Edamame (£6.5) are always going to satisfy, ours could have done with more BBQ char but a sticky glaze and wasabi power added a suitably punchy note. Beef skewers (£9) were initially judged to be a little over cooked. On closer inspection they were pink but still a little dry and tough so we decided the quality of beef was the most likely culprit. Despite this issue I enjoyed the teriyaki sauce as well as the acidic lift that shallot ketchup gave the dish. BBQ Pork Cutlet (£12) suffered similarly in that the meat lacked succulence. It did have a pleasing char to it, though it didn’t have the kick I expected/wanted from the advertised doubanjiang (spicy bean paste).
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BBQ Pork Cutlet – Shio – Nottingham
Fried Chicken – Shio – Nottingham
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The chicken (£8.5), though simple, was perhaps the most accomplished dish on the meal. It could have done with more ‘Shio’ sauce but was well battered and I was pleased to see chicken thigh used in favour of flavourless breast.. The only real failure was a fairly spectacular one in the shape of BBQ asparagus (£9). Some sad, tasteless spears had merely a kiss of the promised BBQ, and the slow poached egg was a bit under done. Goats cheese was undetectable, was it in the white blob on the side or dry puck of a crouton on top? Who knows. A wild garlic pesto was the only bit of flavour to be found and was pleasant enough if quite grainy in texture.
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BBQ Asparagus – Shio – Nottingham
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I couldn’t help feeling that Shio was a tribute act to some of Nottingham’s best restaurants. Clearly Kushi-Ya comparisons, particularly in the beef skewers. Crispy chicken from Iberico? BBQ Cutlet from Mesa? The problem is not necessarily the similarity but it is hard to live up to the original artists that are so good. Especially when both the Edamame and Skewers were £1.50 more than Kushi-Ya. On that basis its hard to wholeheartedly recommend. However, as was the case on my visit, an impromptu Friday night out will rarely present opportunity to eat at the best and in Shio you could do a lot worse.
A news-bite for you too this week. Keep an eye our for Raymond’s, brainchild of Marcus who was the chef behind Mesa before leaving to open this new venue. It’s on Stoney Street and will be opening in August
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