Kushi-Ya – Japanese – Nottingham
Little introduction required today as we take a look at the (deserved) darling of the Nottingham food scene over the last 5 years. Unless you’ve been living under a rock you’ll know they just moved to bigger premises, a sigh of relief for those of us who remember when it was not somewhere you had to queue or book months ahead. I was such a fan I went a least 4 times in October 2018, you can have some nostalgic photos from each.
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Since then they have received local and national accolades with a Michelin Bib Gourmand and a stellar review from Jay Rayner, one of the UK’s most respected critics. With this increased demand a move from their lofty long row dining room was perhaps inevitable. The new site is on Low Pavement and an area on the up with swanky bakery/cafe Public opposite and boulangerie de saigon about to open in what used to be Cartwheel. The space has been transformed in their own minimalist style. Light wood, white tiling and grey tones are accented by Japanese touches. It looks a little cold in photos but not so in real life, abuzz with people and large skylights giving it a spacious sense. I sense, with little basis, the menu may evolve more once this new venue beds in and they grow the team. For now there are old favourites, the odd new dish and some rotating specials.
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Kushi-Ya – Nottingham – The New Venue
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We started with the best of snacks, grilled edamame (£5). Salty with soy and fiery with chilli these hit the spot every time. Particularly now with their new beer collaboration which is with local brewery black iris. The yuzu larger does have quite a lick of citrus but works well, particularly with the spicy dishes. Crispy tofu, cucumber and chilli oil (£7) is another perfect dish for it. The sauce more nutty and subtle that the edamame and the thin cucumber cutting through with a subtle freshness. Something to covert most tofu-sceptics. Kimchi porkbelly (£8) was the best skewer I have had here for a while, even if I’d have liked more punch of fermented cabbage. The chunks of pork were fantastically well charred and then blackened edges with the fat was heavenly. Simple but effective.
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One thing that has always impressed and amazed me is the desserts. I don’t have much of a sweet tooth but I can rarely resist one of their options here. Having had it again this week my current favourite is the Amazake Pudding with umeshu soaked cherries (£7.5). It would take too long to explain the origins but it’s a bit like a panacotta with amaretto cherries. Top stuff. Having mentioned my meal I didn’t even have some of their signature dishes, the best prawn toast I have ever had, the sticky, soft, slow-cooked, soy-glazed pork shoulder. I could go on.
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Kushi-Ya – Nottingham – Amazake Pudding
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Given it was early days I couldn’t fault the service. When asked how it was I gave them the ultimate compliment, it was as good as it had been at their previous venue. Need I say more?
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