Skein – Modern British – Nottingham

A product of successful ventures, Yolk & 31k, Skein (Sk-ay-n) was established earlier this year in the same section of Goose Gate. It seems to be trying to rail against the proliferation of small plate culture with an a la carte menu and “seasonal, locally-sourced produce”. Initial impressions are good, the pretty frontage allowing lots of natural light alongside a minimalist furniture and light wood tones. I went as a party of 7, and was asked to chose from a 3 course set menu, though the dishes were exactly the same as the full menu so it should be representative of everyone’s experience. The wine list was small but appealing, which is quite high praise from me. Despite the positives it did not list vintages and listed a wine as Cinsault when Cinsault made up just 20% of the blend, still some room for improvement.

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Canape & Clam Starter at Skein Nottingham

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Before our first course arrived we had a small snack, tomato and gravadlax on a crispbread. I like the idea of adding a nibble to enhance the experience, especially as they bill themselves as “fine(ish) dining. Sadly it was not a memorable bite, the salmon overwhelmed by the sweet acidic tomato. I had selected baked harissa clams for my starter which turned out to be the culinary highlight of the evening. Clams are a favourite of mine and rarely seen on menus around these parts so I jumped at the chance. I liked the fact the harissa flavour was punchy and deftly balanced with the white wine. Simple and enjoyable, however it was just crying out for some bread to mop up that tasty sauce. Friends also had quite a small portion of soup and were equally invested in the procurement of some carbs but it was quite some time until any arrived after our request. A few little loaves that were nice enough served with some very hard butter, olive oil and marmite.

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Pork Fillet – Skein – Nottingham

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My pork main course arrived with a ceremonial pouring of peppercorn sauce. It was a sad sight. The gloopy, beige sludge taking an awkwardly long time to emerge from its vessel. Disappointing first impressions aside it was all ok, the pork fillet was well cooked, although the advertised aligot potatoes had an undetectable amount of cheese. The main issue was lack of something fresh to cut through the meat and potatoes. A token amount of chard was provided but it was begging for a glazed carrot or caramelised apple slice. Anything. A peach fragipane was a pretty way to finish but was not without fault. The almond filling was unfortunately very dry, the sections with the peach were enjoyable and actually it would have been solid with a nice ice cream accompanying. Which is why it’s baffling they chose to serve a champagne sorbet. Technically it was well made, although I mostly detected a citrus flavour, it just didn’t work with the dessert.

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Peach Frangipane & Champagne Sorbet – Skein – Nottingham

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£38 for this set menu seemed ‘ok’ for the ingredients and quality of what we ate, on average you would spend £28 on a starter and main from the a la carte menu. Our party generally agreed it was competent but unexciting. A swordfish main had by others was well thought of and I have seen positive experiences from others who have been. Is it the same problem as, perhaps, why the likes of World Service & Hart’s could not survive. £22 for the pork, whilst good, would I pick it over the likes of £16 pork shoulder from Kushi-Ya or £16 Shoyu pork ramen at Everyday People? Interestingly those dishes are stalwarts of their menu, the Skein approach of very regular new dishes is admirable, but how can they perfect them? There should be a place for somewhere like Skein, if it improves and finds some consistency.

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